Damper For Fireplace Top Mount Throat Dampers

There are two basic kinds of dampers, top mounted and throat, and you are about to get a crash course in both of them! When your fireplace is in use, an open chimney damper ensures a proper draft and the ventilation of smoke. Dampers are either located at the top of the chimney or at the throat just above the firebox. This problem only gets worse after several years of corrosion. They consist of a metal cap or gate that opens and closes by means of a steel cable and lever inside the fireplace.

In addition, top mount dampers can be somewhat more expensive than other types of dampers and can be more difficult to install. Furthermore, inflatable dampers can be punctured or easily forgotten about when starting a fire. Additionally, the front vents can sometimes allow unwanted airflow. Ordinarily a metal or cast iron damper assembly is installed into the throat of the chimney, but they can also be part of the furnace, stove, or stovepipe.

When used properly, the damper controls the draft that essentially controls the fire making your life easier through the burning months. To inspect the damper, you usually have to crouch down and peer upward toward the rear of the fireplace. Experiment until you learn how small an opening is necessary. Now when the fire is burning the damper should be open but how far?

Now you may have to adjust the damper moving somewhat more open if you put a new log on for a few minutes. This trick will allow more heat to enter the room with less air going up the flue. The damper is the metal plate that closes off the flue pipe. To prevent heat loss, install glass doors in front of the fireplace. Is a damper clamp required with a log lighter used with wood burning? A log lighter is a round pipe under the grate, used to easily start a wood fire. I assume we’d need something a bit longer on both measures, right?

Do you have a replacement plate that might fit? Is there a product out there for this application?

Top Mount vs Throat Dampers

If the opening is sized between the castings available, it should be sized to the closest casting step. The handle itself is usually simple to replace. Since we never used the lower level fireplace, we built an outdoor fireplace on the back side of the lower level place and used that flue to vent it.

However, this year we decided to put a vent free log system in the lower level (closed off) fireplace. Question: is there a way to vent our vent free logs to get rid of the gas smell. I believe there is plenty of depth in the masonry to fit a vent but would that work and is this safe? You’ll be required to and should want to also ask for a building permit and inspections. Be sure to obtain the latest edition. Well, it ended up not being a standard feature that builders put on. Plug is inflated it seals around the damper handle sealing the opening! This did take me a few tries to get positioned just right. Even with the damper closed properly, there was always a cold draft noticeable inside the chimney. It is easy to install- however, you do have to feel around the edges to ensure a proper seal. I did have to shove a rag on either of the short sides of the chimney between the balloon and wall where it v-d, but it is perfect now.

I need to put my hand directly under it just to feel a difference in ambient temperature. This happened once, so far, to the point where cold air began infiltrating. Seems to be quite resistant to puncturing (and it’s been pushed to the limit). We upgraded our fireplace to propane for auxiliary heat- and have not yet pulled the draft stopper out for a fire. After a little trial and error putting it in place, it fit like a glove. My husband installed this in under a minute!!

I love this as a very affordable option. I purchased to stop a draft causing odor from my fireplace. Your only other option would be a stove insert. They are a popular brand of stove inserts. I can’t give you the answer that you want. Again the only radiant heat that you will feel, is by having your glass door “open”. I chose to install a “one-sided” direct-vent gas fireplace insert. While hunting for this damper replacement part. I would also caution you on installing any type of top sealing damper on your condo chimney top. I would still have to discover why that damper is stuck. I would have a top-sealing damper installed. The open and close rod on my damper has snapped. The units were built in the late 70’s and it is a wood burning unit. I was able to test all the wiring from inside the house outside to the heat pump. Looking for options to repair, any suggestions?

Damper looks very rusty and inspector said we need cement cap on top of chimney outside. It has the original damper, which we’ve been told must remain open 100% of the time to avoid carbon monoxide entering the room because of the pilot light.

It is immediately above the firebox and is easily opened and closed with a long metal bar. We developed a leak that allowed water to run down the flue, which over time corroded the damper and eroded the masonry around the hearth.

Is a top-sealing damper a safe and viable alternative?

Its required to be installed on a damper that has gas logs in it. I see online are center-mounted handle mounts, and the setup inside my firebox has it about 5″ from the right hand side. The house was built in the late 60’s, and appears to be a 36″ unit as it needs a plate about 28.5″ wide and 6-7″ tall.

Any idea on possible brands or where this style plate is available for purchase? I would go to every brick yard that is close to me.