Fascia Drip Edge Cement Board Stucco Systems

Most membrane roof leaks can be traced to the failure to seal and secure roof edges. Apply a thin bead of our special silicone caulk to the back of a termination bar to prevent water from running behind the bar, and screw the termination bars through the rubber and tape and into the fascia.

This detail will assure that the water running off the roof runs into the gutter, even if the back edge of the gutter is spaced somewhat from the fascia by the gutter mounting brackets.

The bottom of the drip edge should always be above the flood line of the gutter to prevent capillary draw if there is gutter blockage.

Get a volunteer to cut and hand you up materials and you’ll really move along. Chances are, if your soffits or roof framing is water damaged, you have serious roof problems that you must solve before starting this project.

Most installers use only vented material, even in areas that don’t need venting, such as gable ends (the peaks at the ends of roofs).

Proper installation of the kickout flashing requires that it extend under the stucco, between the wall sheathing and the stucco’s lath, so the flashing must be installed before the stucco is in place.

Driving the screw through a plastic anchor will help the screw to hold securely in the stucco, and filling the hole with caulk before you drive the screw will help to waterproof the hole in the stucco.

Roofers or siding contractors often install step flashing that allows roof water to slip behind the gutter and get behind the siding and even the housewrap.

I like to start by installing a 3-ft. The sheet acts as a backup at a vulnerable junction. But proper installation isn’t as easy as simply nailing coloured metal onto the edges of your roof. Learn the tricks behind these two crucial details and you’ll enjoy a first-class soffit and fascia installation that endures unchanged for years. For best results, apply a light spray lubricant to the teeth after every few cuts to extend blade life. The factory-applied finish on the aluminum you’re working with will last for many decades outdoors, but it’s surprisingly easy to scratch while it’s going up.

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All nailing flanges must be covered with lath and all butt joints must be sealed. Air flowing over a roof creates both positive and negative pressure regions which force air and water into the smallest openings. In high winds, membranes that have not been adequately terminated have been ripped off of roofs. The roof edge must be formed to a 1/2” minimum radius to avoid stretching the rubber which will shorten its life. Remove the release paper from the tape, fold the rubber over the edge, and press the rubber firmly into the tape. If a gutter is to be installed at the roof edge, first attach a spacer block made of rot-resistant wood or plastic flush with the roof surface.

Before applying the bar, the rubber should always be adhered as described in our basic installation procedures. Then trim any excess rubber and apply a heavy bead of caulk between the top of the termination bar and the wall. Other special pre-bent parts make installation a snap. Soffit panels are available in 12-ft. Add 5 percent extra for waste and overlaps. Measure the width of your wood fascia to determine which width to buy. Use it to anchor any edges of soffit not covered by aluminum fascia. You can reuse existing drip edge if it’s in good shape and you’re happy with the color. Don’t bother climbing around on ladders to measure your soffits and fascia (you’ll get enough of that later). Here are two of the proposals we received. This estimate includes a watershield underlayment. This underlayment features the ability to seal around any fasteners that penetrate. When it jumps the falshing, it’s then between the stucco and the wall studs, or in your case, on top of the window.

If the felt paper just runs to the edge of the metal and nothing turns down the fascia you have a real problem. Water can back up onto the decking if the kick out is not soldered. Flexible flashing tape seals the eave end to the wall. I cut the tape so that it laps onto the housewrap above and 3 in.

Cement Board Stucco Systems

I apply a piece of housewrap along the wall where the fascia hits. I fold a piece of metal flashing for the inside corner between the subfascia and the wall. There’s optional backup protection, too. The first is preventing water from trickling behind the aluminum, causing the roof edge to get wet and rot. Cladding the eaves of a house in aluminum involves three kinds of factory-finished parts. During installation the fascia slips up underneath any drip edge that’s part of the roofing treatment. Bright, bare meal shows through with painful clarity when scratched. This protects the painted finish on those occasions when soffit and fascia needs to be cut with the finish facing down. Measure the area where you’re working to make sure that one size really does fit all. The aluminum nails sold for this job are soft and short, so it can be frustrating to drive them. All connections should be overlapped to shed any water that may hit the soffit as it goes up the angled eaves on gable-end walls.

Also, with proposal 2 the existing flashing would remain. Is it ok to keep the original flashing using the self-sealing underlayment?

However if your tiles were laid in a way that the underlayment is keeping more water out than the tiles themselves then your roof may be nearing the end of its life.

Is that material ok for concrete tile?

Let then explain why they proposed what they did until you are confident they are doing the right job. That way, you’ll be able to strip off the old siding without wrecking the new soffits. Hammer, utility knife, tape measure, chalk line. A circular saw makes clean, precise cuts easy—when it’s coupled with a cutting table. Before reversing the blade, make a pass halfway through the top of the plywood saw table to create a saw blade groove. Cut a 45-degree angle on adjoining pieces to give a mock miter appearance to corners. Use a trim nail punch to drive 1-1/2 in. The trick is to finish as much as possible on one soffit before moving all the gear. You’ll pick up speed when you conquer the basics of soffit installation, but for the average sized house you should plan to rent the scaffolding for at least a week.

Select stainless if there’s a choice. Bend it and cut it to fit around the boxed return, lapping over the bottom piece of fascia 1/2 in. Then either peel back the material or bend it back and forth until it snaps off. Use extra care nailing up the aluminum fascia. Begin installing aluminum fascia at the center of each length by pushing it up snug to the bottom of the soffit panels. On slopes, like eave ends, work your way uphill with the lowest fascias first. Or you can convert sloped soffits to flat with 2x4s to provide a nailing form for the aluminum trim. These tabs can then be nailed to the wall. Manufacturers of premium-grade aluminum use thicker-gauge metal with sturdier edges, so the soffits are more resistant to kinking and denting. Take the time to make allowances for expansion while also keeping water from sneaking behind the aluminum and you’ll enjoy eaves you can always feel proud of.

On a retrofit you may not be able to get the large lapping pieces of housewrap onto the wall but you can layer in a couple pieces even if you only pull 3 or 4 siding laps off.

Apply housewrap tape over all nail holes. Place the kickout flashing at the eave edge and draw the outline on the houswrap for reference. Cut a 2 ft wide by 3 ft tall piece of housewrap and slip one edge into the cut and up at least 5 in.

Fold the piece up along the cut line and apply a piece of housewrap tape (this undertapes the piece of housewrap). The bottom edge of the housewrap piece should be long enough to lay over the top lap of a siding course below. This is your fail-safe backup to any leak at the kickout wing. Any water that may pass through the small hole where the siding is trimmed around the wing will be drained back out onto the face of the siding.

Tape over the cut in the housewrap with housewrap tape. Trim the housewrap piece around the wing of the kickout flashing and along the roof-line. Then tape the sides of the housewrap piece down. Even though you end up cutting into the siding at the vertical wing of a kickout, it is still the best solution. This only dumps water directly behind the housewrap and/or siding. Do a lot of my own work – but not roofs. Second, your video shows the process up to the addition of siding. But would that not leave you with another gap (between siding edge and backside of diverter contour) where rain could ingress?

The ugly part is channeling around the kickout wing. For any lap or shingle siding, the process isn’t a problem. You just use a jigsaw to cut a notch in the siding for the kickout. With fibercement, you have to leave 2 inches to the roof surface and for wood you should leave about 1 inch. If so, please send it to me or post it.

Installing Drip Edge On Your Roof!