I had to cut through two layers of old sealant. The lower section of the cap is keyed in the concrete and the top section strips to create a reservoir for sealants. Easily stripped by inserting a screwdriver and pulling up. Ideal for use with plural injection type systems. Dual durometer seal provides secure fit and optimal flexibility.
Product Catalog – Masonry Expansion Joint Filler
Flexible in any temperature and will not absorb moisture. It is lightweight and easy to cut or form in the field without waste. It is waterproof, permanent, flexible, and self-sealing. Due to its unique self-sealing characteristic, no subsequent joint sealing is required. Used in 80% of all control joint situations. Self-sealing; no additional joint sealant required. Prevents deterioration of joint edges. Provides even load transfer across floor joints, thereby protecting joint edges from breaking down under traffic. Sponge helps prevent clogging of expansion joints with mortar and is the accepted material for brick and block expansion joint fillers. To solve this problem, use a masonry blade on a circular saw to clean out the crack, then fill it with a bead of silicone caulk that’s made especially for concrete.
It seems the sealant would just run out at the bottom? The backer rod controls the sealant depth and reduces caulk consumption. Our sales team is willing to solve every question from our clients.
Applications include water and sewage treatment plants, flood walls, outlet works, spillways and industrial construction. Because of its mechanical sealing properties, it is particularly suited for joints in liquid-containing structures, (in conjunction with waterstops and/or sealants) or for preventing intrusion of foreign matter into overly contracted joints.
Weight at 1/2″ thickness is 1.2 lbs per sf. Weight at 1/2″ thickness is 1.36 lbs per sf. An economical, high performance expanding foam secondary sealant to field-applied liquid sealant. Puncture or failure of primary liquid sealant does not affect sealant system performance. Material is inserted into joint and adhered to one side. Back pressure maintains seal and ensures that silicone is virtually never under tension. Addition in the field of a silicone corner bead ensures sealing between the silicone facing and substrate. Ideal for use with plural injection type systems. I have a weed problem as well and have been removing them from the cracks which leaves a little gap. These are getting old and the wood is decaying. But what should be done with a crack that gets wider within the control joint itself?
I wouldn’t fill up the control joint. Isolation joints and control joints are a bit different in their makeup. When it rains, sand rises up through the cracks and settles at the bottom of the driveway. The builder has filled the cracks twice with a caulk type product. One month after each application of caulk, the caulk cracks then allows sand to escape again. I like this product because of its elasticity and ability to flex with the concrete. Dam up the ends if the joint is even slightly sloped. Leveling sealant will ooze out of either end. It helps prevent the backer rod from floating up, making unsightly humps. I am looking at the “control joints” which of course have cracks in them. They look kind of dumb with the nice grey sikaflex expansion joints. I understand about the purpose of control joints…to crack where you want it to!
But like you said it is the aesthetics of those unfilled control joints that bother me.
Neoprene Rubber Sponge
He did his driveway 5 years ago and it appears he did the control joints too. Apply a big bead between two slabs of concrete and you will have a nice flat shiny surface in a few minutes. I think if you apply it at the top of a sloped driveway you will have a puddle at the bottom in no time.
Sika is going to be along the lines of whether it is elastic enough?
I have, and to learn especially on construction fields every single day. I am stuck now due to rain and cannot pour the new sealant. Sika’s technical service line and as them their thoughts. I read somewhere that it needs 72 if we are planning to paint (we are not). Also, any advice for directing the water away from the garage?
That way you only have to place the backer rod so that it’s maybe 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch below your slabs. Use a cheap caulking to prefill the openings, wait a few minutes for the caulking to set. I just did mine and there was no pooling at the bottom. Use an angle grinder to cut out the old material and mineral spirits to clean off the concrete. The concrete slab itself is in good shape without lots of cracks so on its own doesn’t need to be replaced right away.
Diy Repair Sidewalk Expansion Joints
Looking for a cheaper way to seal sidewalk expansion joints? Try using the extra large size self-leveling sealant and watch this …
