Sandtex Filler Screwfix Page Found

Push the filler firmly into the hole or crack. Can be drilled, screwed, sanded or planed. The word texture is stupid as there is no texture. All this because the brickie had the wrong mix for the job. The result is that the block work moves at the weakest point which is the block itself and not the mortar. Until you’ve seen it you won’t believe how much water can run down a wall and track in along horizontal hairline cracks.

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Thanks for enjoying masonry filler ready mixed masonry filler image. Thanks for seeing masonry filler exterior filler pd image. I am a professional painting contractor. If you need some advice but it isn’t woodworking related, post here. Is the stuff sold by screwfix or toolstation decent quality?

Nowhere is this more evident than in modern building with lightweight aircrete blocks. I have seen walls covered with the white web of dry rot simply because water has tracked in through cracks that you would hardly notice with the naked eye.

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What then happens is the seasonal movement in the building causes the cracks to push upon the hard repair and lever the cracks open even more.

The reason that many won’t kick the habit or at least cut down is because putting in less cement makes the mix difficult to work with.

While plasticiser introduces air to increase workability and help frost resistance it doesn’t have the same stickability as lime. The lime should not exceed the cement. Not only does the hydrated lime help the workability and adhesion of the mortar it also retains the moisture during the initial set to assist hydration.

This makes it the ideal material for repointing brickwork. I opened the first one it was a solid as a rock !

I now have the hassle and cost of going back to the store and have to find another warm dry day to do the jobs.

Easy to fill using flexible scraper blade, nice consistency, and workable. Easy returns, with 30 day money back guarantee.

Suitable for interior and exterior use. Can be applied on any substrate either unpainted or painted. Can be overcoated by any type of paint and wall coverings. Can be applied on any type of wood, including exotic species, chipboard and plywood. Excellent adherence and is easy to shape and sand. Dries white in colour, can be drilled when cured and also overpainted with any type of conventional paint, varnish or stain. Just wanted to ask you, what are the ratios of mixing lime render for internal walls???

The render mix for internal walls depends on the strength of the masonry. If so then the water proofer isn’t so critical. I do have a couple of questions if you would be kind enough to help. Does this apply to all block work regardless of the density. If you are masonry painting them the paint will fill them. If you tap the wall there shouldn’t be a hollow sound and that is what matters. Do you need to attach the mesh to the wall first (somehow?) or do you render, push mesh in, then skim over? I think this is part of reason for damage. I would stitch the cracks with helical ties. Have done an “inadequately deep” scratch coat & have to “try” a top coat tmrw. You can put the scratch coat on in as many coats and patches as you like. I guess a good dollop of masonry paint is perhaps all one can do. Cotswold style cast concrete blocks on our “new” 60s house. I go to the trouble of cutting the dressed faces of the blocks to give a more uniform surface level (very labour intensive as the windows are 2.4m wide) or bring the level flush by putting an initial coat of render on to fill in the imperfections?

Can the render finish tight against the brick work piers?

The important thing is that each coat is slightly thinner than the last. The house is quite damp in places as it’s stone built and i read that sand and cement render was good at holding back damp.

Have you got any advice for me?

Battens are then nailed over this and another layer of breather paper and then eml. Americans put mesh direct onto the breather paper omitting the battens, second layer of breather paper and not creating the cavity. Sadly now their sand seems no different to the others presumably because the silicon is now absent. Do you know of any silicon additives. Weber with a fibreglass mesh embedded in it. I use a wood float to suck it up slightly. Then you can go over it with a bagged product such as monocouche or a sand and cement mix with 6 sand 1 cement 1 lime.

If you have already started with the mesh then by all means continue. It is often used on loft conversion dormer cheeks to create a render finish rather than tile hanging. I was told that they used to sell internal and external rendering sand the difference being the external had the silicon added but for logistical reasons they added silicon to all their rendering sand to simplify things.

It highlights a problem that many novices have and that is that they try and get a finish before they have the sand and cement on the wall.

That said if you are painting the render you are applying a water resistant coating but it doesn’t seem to trap moisture. Scratch coat dryed to quick for my liking but seems nice and solid. Even storing the cement in a cool environment can help because the setting is aided by heat. Around a 3.1 mix ratio.or a diluted sbr ? In days gone by people used stainless steel expanded metal but you waste a lot of material and it is prone to cracking.

I get access to the area and what would be best to use for this?

The hole is obviously round with small bits of further damage around the hole in a circle shape, the render is white and the pebble dash is white.

I look there seems to be so much different information. As for the hole a bit of white exterior filler and a few pebbles pushed into the wet mix should do it. There is also a hole that needs filling too, about 50mm deep, from an old fixing that held a previous soil stack.

As for the hole a deeep filler will be fine. Again throw find sand on it and when it is nearly dry use a damp sponge to feather it in. Earthborn which contains lime, white cement and clay amongst other things and this promises to be breathable and flexible. I can apply it in the cracks/hole using that. What is does is to spread the cement/lime mix more evenly through the mix and add air to the mix. The real benefit of the hydraulic lime is to allow you to use less cement so a 1.1. It is for repairs yu won’t need that many bags. So looking to makeover 20th centry mistakes. The cracks when racked out are between 3 to 8mm wide. I favour a mastic gunned in the crack.

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